I feel like it was all a dream because surely the sights we saw could possible be not of this world??!! It's hard to believe that a country can hold so many climates, terrain and stunning views. It was beautiful wherever we turned!
We headed to the Croatia's Dalmatian Coast after their heatwave, but it was still between 30-35°C so I dread to think how it was like during the heatwave. I always say I was supposed to be born in hot country and so the heat didn't bother me so much but the kids did struggle a bit. Thankfully, we were staying in AC flats and most of the cities we visited were by the seaside so it was cooler than staying amongst buildings. Before I take you through our 2 weeks in heaven, here is some things you should know about Croatia:
- There's not much of a railway system in Croatia but the bus services were great! I would highly recommend hiring a car to get through to hidden gems and cities but I believe we did quite well with the transport systems we had. Flixbus was our best friend throughout the whole trip and very purse friendly.
- Carry cash as many places accept cards
- It is extremely hard to find authentic Dalmatian food which I was disappointed about. However with lots of advice from local people, we were able to taste some yummy Dalmatian cuisine. For anyone who wants their pastas and pizzas (the regular food basically), you have no shortage of this. Dalmatian cuisine is mainly seafood.
- Croatia is made up of many little islands which I had no idea about. There are ferry services to the main islands but if you want to visit the smaller ones, you might need to hire a skipper or go on an organised tour.
- I booked all day rips and tours we wanted to do beforehand via Viator which was reduced lot of my stress. The good thing with Viator is you don't have to pay until 2 days before and you will free cancellation until those 2 days before.
- The Croatian people are some of the nicest people you will encounter. They were so friendly and helpful!
- I would recommend using Bolt or Uber if you need a taxi. If you do take a cab, it will be rip-off. Bolt offers cheaper rates than Uber.
- Always carry your swimsuit with you because the beaches are everywhere and so inviting and you don't know when you will want to jump in! None of the beaches have lifeguards so know your limits!
- Carry water bottles with you as there are no refills stations.
- Supermarkets only sell fruits and vegetables that are in season.
Our first week of the trip was in Split. We stayed in the city centre which was very useful as we had planned lots of day trips so needed easy access to the bus station and ferry port. However, I did struggle with the crowds. It was just too busy for my liking. In Split, we got to know the area so had a little walk around the Old Town. We visited the Diocletian Place which you can walk around from free around its perimeter as the kids didn't want to go inside. There was also the Ethnographic Museum for those who like their museums. We got our history from the boards dotted around the city. There's also free history walk tour that the major cities offer. We shopped at te only UNESCO supermarket too! We also visited the city gates with its nice little park. The city centre was so cite by the Marina and lots of shops. There's also the Marjan Park where I did a nice hike from one end to the other with stunning views of the city. The kids wanted to rest so I did this on my own. It was a hilly hike. The hike took me through across some churches and some historic sites. My hike ended at Kasjuni Beach. it was such a refreshing swim after about 2 hours of hiking from start to end with lots of stops to take in the views. The colour of the water as different shades of green and blue and you just need to appreciate what you see. I chose Kasjuni Beach, even though there were more popular beaches by the City centre, because it has less people and wanted to swim with views of the hills and greenery.
We did a number of day trips as below:
- Makarska - This is a beautiful fishing village with the Biokovo Mountain the background. the town centre reminded me of the Mamma Mia village in some parts. It wasn't too busy but thats propable becuase we went in late afternoon. We wanted to walk to the free Botanical garden Kotišina on the mountain and take in the views but the heat got to the kids and there were no Uber/Bolt available so we skipped it. There is also a skywalk at the Biokov Mountains for those interested in going on top of the mountain. We headed to the Macological Museum as Mahish loves all things shells. The museum was part of a working Monastery and had specific opening times so do check before going. With a small entry fee, the museum hosted shells from across the world and it is amazing to see the designs of nature. We then headed to Osejava Beach which is by the port so the waves were quite strong even for us competent swimmers. It was by the Osejava Forest Park where we took a little stroll after our swim. There's something about swimming against mountains hills. There's also plenty of other beaches but a little out of town. After dinner, we headed to Makarska Observatory which only opens after 9pm. However, the observatory is very hidden and took us a few false detours to get there. However, due to unforseen circumstances, the Observatory was closed which was shame as we timed our whole trip around the Observatory opening times.
- Krka National Park - There are 2 national parks that are must see when visiting the Dalmatian Coast; Plitvice National Park and Krka National Park. I picked Krka as it was chepaer and will be less busy. And it disappoint! We went as part of a tour so transport was provided. You have to pay extra from the National Park and you are left to do as yu please until departure time at a nearby village. Our tour guide was very good in explaining the area and timings ,etc so it wasn't like we didn't know what to do. We also had a whatsapp group to communicate with the guide should we need her. We did the tour through https://pelicantourssplit.com/. I heard a lot about the beautiful waterfalls of Croatia and hence headed to Krka and it didn't disappoint! Ah the colours and the beautiful views. I cannot describe it but you must visit. It had a lot of waterfalls leading to the mian waterfalls. There's also a square by the main waterfals with food. You cannot swim there anymore unfortunately. Afterwards, we took to boat to the nearby village Skradin where we had a swim in the river until it was time to go.
- Omis - another easy daytrip from Split. Omis is a beautiful town set along the Cetina River Canyon. It has 2 forts and beautiful beaches. Omis is known for all the adventures it offers such as river rafting, canyoning, paragliding and zip lining across the Canyon. We picked canyoning as it looks more fun and seeing the canyons, its waterfalls and caves up close. We picked our adventure with https://maldukadventures.com/ who answered all the questions I had, patient and very professional. Before we started the advenure, we went through safety intructions and put on our kits. Canyoning is not for the faint-hearted. You need to have a lot of stamina but it was the experience of a life-time. This experience is definitely for the adventurous and the athletic kinds. Children must be aged 12 and over. The groups are quite small The water was so refreshing to jump into after the very steep climb down the canyon. The water was so clear and you can drink from it. As it was the summer, the water levels were low so we mostly walked on rocks instead of swimming. Sometimes, we were sliding down mini waterfalls. It was epic! We couldn't unfortunately finish canyoning as we struggled a bit so it was wise for us to stop and were retraced our steps with another instructor. But it was worth it and like I said a once-in a lifetime experience.
Klis - For the Games of Thrones fan, the Klis fortress will be a highlight. We went through Solis which is a little town with roman ruins and water mills. All for free. Visiting Klis took us 2 hours as it quite large with well placed information boards. The views were absolutely stunning. The fortress is well maintained but I will recommend good shoes as it is cobbled.
When our time in Split came to an end, we headed to Zadar for 5 days. Zadar for me was my favourite place to stay. It wasn't too touristy or busy. It is so beautiful with more history than Split, in my opinion. We explore Zadar Old Town- the Roman Forum, the Old Church the markets and the Riviera. The Riviera consists of the Sea Organ which emits music as the waves hit the hole filled walls. It was actual music. Just beind it, is Greeting to the Sun. It is a waterfront light installation that comes alive post-sunset with a solar-powered display. Imagine your evenings with the sea organ and a beautiful light installation at Sunset. It's pure bliss where you feel grateful to be alive. We also did a half submerged-submarine trip along the city. It took 50 minutes but we didn't see many fishes and th kids lost their patience. It was the only thing throughout our whole holiday that we were disappointed about. Zadar had more authentic Dalmatian cuisine which we were so happy about and it didn't disappoint at all! Other day trips we have done while we were in Zadar were:
- Velebit Mountain - Velebit Mountain Range is the largest mountain range in Croatia. It is the backdrop of Zadar. this was a private tour that I had booked through Airbnb. I like to do things outside the normal and I wanted to see everything that the Croatia offered. When I hear people think about Croatia, they only talk about the beaches. I wanted to explore further and when doing my research came across the Velebit Mountains. There is national park attached to the mountain but apart from from taking a walk through it or doing rock climbing, there wasn't much to do. And that's when I came across Aleksander's rpivate trip to the Velebit mountains as well as everything else we loved - caves and swimming amongst waterfalls https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/4031758 . Aleksander was the best - his passion for the area and his country was palpable. He was extremely flexible and offered a personalised trip according to our needs and wants which was slightly different to what he offered. On the day of our scheduled trip, he was on time on picked us up in his Jeep. While on the way, to the mountains, we stopped in beautiful viewpoints such as canyons and bridges. He also explained about the different weathers affecting Zadar due to the mountains such as the strong Burra Winds that Zadar encounters and causes some nearby islands to be cut off from the mainland. When we drove up the mountain, we encountered mild turbulence from this famous Burra Wind. The views as we climbed up were beautiful. As we climbed up, we also came across the Croatian footballer Luka Modrić's childhood home. Aleksander knew the area very well and it showed as he stopped the jeep wherever there nice photographic moments. On top of the mountain we came across graves which were of those soldiers that that were part in the guerilla movement in the 1990 war and used the mountain as their hideaway place. The top of the mountain was indescribable! Obviously the temperature cooled down significantly and the winds were strong but I was living life! You can do a hike up there but we decided not to do it. As we crossed the mountain to the other side, it felt we were in the Austrian Alps. It was amazing the change of scenery and climate. We headed to Croatia's largest cave complex, Cerovac Caves. Bear in mind, you can visit either the Upper cave or Lower cave and you won't know which one you will visit until you get there. They do tours every hour and can only visit the caves on those tours. We visited the Upper Caves which was a 20 minutes walk up. The cave was beautiful with some very impressive stalactites, stalagmites, and stalagnates. Once we relaxed a bit a the cave, we headed around the mountains to the Zrmanja River to swim. You can swim anywhere along the river which can be very busy. Aleksander took us further down where it was less busy and right by the waterfalls. What can I say? It was one of my reams to swim by waterfalls and I was so glad. We could also do cliff jumping at various heights . We didnt venture too high but did cliff jumping at lower heights. It was such a refreshing swim after such a long day. Aleksander was so great that I organised another personalised trip with him.
- Pag Island - Pag is one of the largest island of Croatia. It is known from its lace, cheese and for the Mars-like terrain! To me, I feel it is one of the must visit places which offered unique experiences. Aleksander was able to fit in all that I wanted to see and do. If he thought there were things we weren't able to do based on our walking abilities under the heat, he would tell us. For example, while researching about Pag, I came across that there was WW2 concentration camp called the Slana Concentration camp. However, it was about a 45mins walk on a hard surface and with no shade from the team. I am glad he told us this advance as we definitely couldn't have done it. But for those who can do it, the concentration camp doesn't have ruins or anything. It just blends in with the landscape but we wanted to see the area. So when we entered Pag, Aleksander's knowledge was impressive. We stopped on route many times to admire views. We first headed to a working Pag cheese factory called Gigliora which did daily tours at specific times. We were all keen to do this cheese factory tour as we love cheese and we had to know what was special about the cheese. This was a 20minutes tour. You had to wear protective gear and it was a great tour to see all the different cheeses with really interesting flavours. We then had some tasting of the cheese in the shop and had a blast! Definitely recommend for something unique to do. We then headed to the town centre of Pag where there was a salt factory ( as you drive to the centre, you come across salt pits). However, we headed to the little lace gallery where you can see the famous Pag lace being made. Now, don't expect too much it. It is a one room gallery with a tiny entrance fee. We were lucky that it was opened as when I read the reviewed, past visitors were complaining how the gallery was clsed when it was supposed to be opened. The lady was charming and shared the history of the lace and specialised school where you learned special embroideries with that lace and its patterns. She even gave us a demonstration which was excatly what I wanted to see. It is unfortunately an art that is being lost so I felt very lucky to be submerged into Pag's culture. The town centre is quite small but charming. you can see ladies on the street doing Pag lacing too. Pag island is also known for its party vibes if you are into parties! We then headed to do a little bit of 'Life on Mars' walk and so headed to Rucina beach. This was good stop for us to cool down and swim but also it was closest to Stogaj which is a vertical rock formation. We walked to it which was 20 minutes from the car park. as i said, the whole island felt we were on Mars so there's no shade from the heat. You also need to have good shoes as the ground is full of loose stones. However, the view were phenomenal. It did feel we were on another planet. After this we visit the Olive Garden which was on the other end of the island. This is more a whole park instead of garden with olive trees as old as a few centuries but were still producing olives. I loved walking among the trees. There's also cute little gifts shops with local produce. The park had the factory and ampitheatre too! Like I said, Aleksander was good at his job and didn't complain once about the long distances we travelled. He was the perfect guide and we had such a great time exploring some of Croatia's hidden gems.
- Dugi Otok - this was another guided trip with Alamar travel https://www.viator.com/tours/Zadar/Dugi-otok-Island-discovery-day-tour-from-Zadar/d22433-278137P2 . I chose this particular trip as it offered a stop at Gobulinka Cave which ater seeing photos of it during my research, I had to see it. Marin was our skipper for the day. It was a small group (10of us). This is a very busy, active day so the disclaimer is if you plan to just relax on the boat, that won't happen. This tour had lots of stops but you had time to relax in the water and learn about the area you were anchored in. We first visited a war tunnel for a little history lesson. To get our dose of white sandy beaches we headed to Sakarun beach to swim and do snorkelling. The colour of the water was just a beautiful turquoise. And the water was so nice and warm. We spent 1 hour swiming and relaxing on the beach. Next was m favourite stop which was Gobulinka Cave. You have to swim to see the sea cave. Marin stopped our boat by the entrance and it is a 5 minute swim to the back of the cave where you can sit and relax. My God, it was a sight! It is so beautiful with different colours of the water and walks coming into play. The waters were clam so the swim wasn't as exhausting as I expected. We stayed in for 30minutes. Do bear in mind that this is a famous stop for kayaking tours so you may come across a lot of kayaks. We got there before it got too busy so we only got the inundation of kayaks when we were leaving the sea cave. Before our lunch tops, we stopped at a shipwreck and swam amongst it which was another box ticked for me. You can touch the shipwreck as it wasn't that deep. Our lunch stop was at Veli Rat with its towering lighthouse and delicous food with fresh seafood. Our last stop was secret away from all people and it was nice to have the area all to ourselves. Marin was great and I even got to steer the boat for a little bit. It was a great experience and enjoyed it so much.
Unfortunately, our trip gallivanting around the Dalmatian Coast came to an end. But it won't be tje ;ast time we will be visiting Croatia. I am absolutely in love with the country and will need regular doses of it for the rest of my life! It was affordable for those that are always on a tight budget like me but I believe, we managed well while staying within budget. We didn't spend money on anything we didn't want to do and we stayed in Airbnbs so we only ate 1 meal outside daily. Most of the things we did were free and the organised trips, were booked in advance which saved us a bit of money!